Lighting Installation & Fixtures

Surface-mounted fixtures, recessed cans, and wafer lights.

Surface-mounted fixtures attach at the wall or ceiling rather than sitting inside it. Flush mounts, pendants, chandeliers, sconces, and many strip fixtures use an electrical box and mounting support suited to the fixture. Share the weight, location, and ceiling height so the wiring and support can be assessed.

Recessed can lights use a housing above the ceiling with a lamp or compatible LED retrofit and trim. Existing housings need a compatibility check before changing the light source. Insulation-contact and airtight ratings matter where applicable. Recessed wafer lights are thin, usually integrated LED fixtures with a separate driver or junction enclosure. They can fit some locations with limited ceiling depth, but still need proper clearance, accessible connections as required, and a location clear of framing and other services. The driver must remain installed as its instructions require.

Typical output: about 600–1,200 lumens per residential recessed can or wafer, or 1,500–3,000 lumens for a main surface-mounted ceiling fixture. These are starting ranges, not requirements. Match the fixture count, beam spread, and spacing to the room.

Incandescent, fluorescent, and LED: what changes?

Incandescent lamps make light by heating a filament. They produce substantial heat and generally use more electricity for comparable light output than fluorescent or LED lighting. Halogen lamps are a type of incandescent. Fluorescent tubes and compact fluorescent lamps use a ballast and contain mercury, so spent lamps need appropriate recycling. A fluorescent fixture’s lamp and ballast must match.

LED lighting uses light-emitting diodes and a driver. It can provide similar brightness with less electricity than older light sources. Some fixtures accept replaceable LED bulbs; others have integrated LEDs and may need a replacement module or fixture when components fail. Compare lumens for brightness, color temperature for how warm or cool the light appears, and color rendering for how naturally finishes look. An LED tube conversion must match the fixture and approved conversion method, rather than simply swapping any tube into an old ballast fixture.

Lighting color: warm white, cool white, and the spectrum in between.

The color of white light is described by its correlated color temperature, or CCT, measured in kelvins (K). Lower numbers look warmer and more yellow or amber; higher numbers look cooler and more blue-white. Kelvin describes color appearance, not brightness or the heat of the fixture. Use lumens to compare light output.

Warm white, around 2700K, is a useful starting point for bedrooms, living rooms, and dining areas. It can complement wood finishes and create a softer evening feel. Soft warm white, around 3000K, is a useful starting point for kitchens, bathrooms, everyday indoor spaces, and decorative lighting. Neutral white, around 3500K, suits kitchens and bathrooms when you want less yellow without a distinctly cool appearance. These are preferences to discuss, rather than rules for every room.

Cool white, around 4000K, can suit commercial offices, retail stores, residential task areas, healthcare settings, and classrooms when you prefer a crisper appearance. Daylight-style lighting, commonly around 5000K–6500K, has a cooler character that can suit workshops, garages, and commercial and industrial spaces. A higher Kelvin number does not automatically make a space brighter or improve visibility; fixture placement, glare, and light output still matter.

Color temperature is only part of the spectrum story. Two lights with the same Kelvin rating can render paint, skin tones, food, and wood differently. Color Rendering Index (CRI) describes color fidelity compared with a reference light. A high-CRI option, often 90 or above, is worth considering for vanity mirrors, kitchen counters, artwork, and other places where color appearance matters. Try a sample in the room before choosing a whole set.

Selectable-CCT fixtures let you choose from preset white-light settings, while tunable-white systems let you change the white tone using compatible controls. Dim-to-warm products become warmer as they dim; ordinary dimmable LEDs do not necessarily change color. RGB or RGBW lighting adds decorative colors, with RGBW including a dedicated white-light channel. Each system needs its specified driver and control arrangement.

Tell Colt which rooms connect visually and whether you want matching colors or separate lighting moods. Coordinating fixtures in the same sightline can make the result feel more consistent. Share the model, Kelvin range, CRI, and preferred dimming or color controls so compatibility can be reviewed before installation.

Dimmers matched to the light fixture.

A dimmer must suit the lamp or driver, connected load, and wiring. Traditional incandescent or halogen fixtures can use a suitably rated incandescent dimmer. Dimmable LED bulbs and fixtures need a compatible LED-rated dimmer, often using forward-phase or reverse-phase control as specified by the manufacturer. Electronic low-voltage (ELV) and magnetic low-voltage (MLV) lighting need controls appropriate to their transformer or driver. “Dimmable” does not mean compatible with every dimmer.

Some shop fixtures, commercial lights, and LED drivers use 0–10V dimming with separate control wiring. Fluorescent dimming requires a dimmable ballast and matching control; an ordinary wall dimmer is not suitable for a standard fluorescent ballast. Smart dimmers, multi-location controls, and occupancy or daylight controls also need a compatibility review, including neutral-wire requirements and minimum or maximum loads. Colt can check model numbers and manufacturer compatibility information to help avoid flicker, buzzing, or poor low-level performance.

Lighting timers: light when you need it.

Timers switch lighting on and off on a schedule or after a set period. A countdown timer can turn a light off after a selected interval, while a daily or seven-day programmable timer suits regular indoor or outdoor routines. An astronomic timer calculates sunrise and sunset from its location and date settings, helping exterior lighting follow seasonal daylight changes without a separate light sensor. A photocell instead responds to the actual light level at its sensor.

Wall-mounted timers can control permanently wired lighting. Suitable plug-in timers can operate lamps or seasonal lighting within their ratings, with outdoor-rated equipment where exposed to weather. Smart lighting controls may also offer schedules, remote access, and manual overrides, depending on the system. Tell Colt whether you want porch lights on at sunset, landscape lights off at bedtime, or a simple timed shutoff.

The timer must match the supply voltage, lamp or LED driver type, connected load, and switching arrangement. Some need a neutral conductor; others are designed for installations without one. Existing multi-location switches, LED compatibility, and outdoor enclosures need review before choosing a model. A timer controls when lights operate; it does not automatically provide dimming. Combining timers and dimmers requires an arrangement approved by the equipment manufacturers. Colt can review the wiring, install compatible controls, and explain the schedule and manual override.

Indoor lighting.

Balance overall room lighting with task lighting and accent lighting. We can discuss fixture replacements, new locations, switched zones, and compatible controls around furniture, ceiling height, and finishes. For a remodel, plan the layout before ceilings and walls close so wiring and fixture positions support how you will use the space.

Brightness starting point: roughly 10–20 lumens of combined fixture output per square foot for relaxed living spaces. A 150-square-foot room starts around 1,500–3,000 total lumens, plus task lighting. All ranges on this page are rough planning estimates, not code requirements or guaranteed light levels. Ceiling height, dark finishes, shades, beam spread, and vision needs affect the result. Lumens measure source output; foot-candles measure light reaching a surface. Colt can refine the layout for your space.

Kitchen lighting.

Combine general ceiling lighting with focused light at counters, sinks, and islands. Recessed cans or wafers can provide broad coverage, while pendants help define an island or dining area. Place lights to reduce shadows on work surfaces, and consider separate controls for cooking, dining, and evening use. Share cabinet and appliance plans before finalizing locations.

Brightness starting point: about 30–40 lumens per square foot for general kitchen light, or 4,500–6,000 total lumens in a 150-square-foot kitchen. Add focused counter and sink lighting separately to reduce shadows where you work.

Under-counter and under-cabinet lighting.

Under-cabinet lighting brightens countertop work areas; lighting beneath counters, shelves, or toe-kicks can add a softer accent. Options include listed LED strips, light bars, and small fixtures with compatible drivers. We review mounting space, driver access, cable routing, switching, and dimming. Equipment near sinks or moisture must have ratings suited to its location.

Brightness starting point: about 200–400 lumens per linear foot for countertop task lighting, or 1,200–2,400 lumens along a 6-foot run. Softer toe-kick accents can start around 100–200 lumens per foot. Mounting position, diffusers, and counter color affect useful brightness.

Bathroom lighting.

Vanity lighting can reduce facial shadows, while ceiling lighting provides general illumination. Fixtures in or near tubs and showers need the appropriate location rating and installation clearances. Colt can review switching, compatible dimmers, and required circuit protection. Lighting and ventilation can be planned together, with the lighting equipment selected for the actual moisture exposure.

Brightness starting point: about 20–30 lumens per square foot for general light, or 1,000–1,500 lumens in a 50-square-foot bathroom. A vanity may use another 1,000–2,000 lumens spread across suitable fixtures. Check facial shadows and glare when choosing mirror lighting.

Bedroom lighting.

Use comfortable general light alongside bedside, reading, or closet lighting. Separate controls make it easier to use one part of the room without lighting everything. Dimmable fixtures can support quieter evening use. Closet fixture types and placement need review for clearances from stored items; a decorative fixture is not suitable for every closet location.

Brightness starting point: about 10–20 lumens per square foot, or 1,500–3,000 total lumens for a 150-square-foot bedroom. A reading lamp can start around 400–800 lumens each, with adjustable placement and dimming for comfort.

General area lighting.

Living rooms, hallways, stairs, entries, and utility areas benefit from even illumination and controls in convenient locations. We can review dark corners, glare, awkward shadows, and switching at multiple entrances. Recessed lights, surface fixtures, and wall lights each distribute light differently, so choose the layout around room dimensions and how people move through it.

Brightness starting point: about 10–20 lumens per square foot for living rooms, hallways, and entries. A 200-square-foot living area starts around 2,000–4,000 total lumens. Steps need even illumination without glare; reading and utility tasks may need additional local light.

Garage lighting.

Improve visibility for parking, storage, and projects with ceiling fixtures and focused workbench lighting. Fixture positions should account for garage doors, tracks, shelving, and shadows beside vehicles. LED strip or linear fixtures can provide useful coverage, with separately switched work areas or compatible occupancy controls where appropriate.

Brightness starting point: about 30–50 lumens per square foot for general garage use, or 12,000–20,000 total lumens in a 400-square-foot garage. Add focused workbench lighting and account for shadows from vehicles, shelving, and an open garage door.

Shop and outbuilding lighting.

Plan lighting around machinery, benches, storage, ceiling height, and the tasks performed. Linear LED fixtures, high-bay lights, or targeted task lights may suit different spaces. Colt reviews circuit capacity, switching zones, and equipment ratings for damp, dusty, or otherwise demanding conditions. Specialized or hazardous locations need a separate assessment rather than ordinary household fixtures.

Brightness starting point: about 30–50 lumens per square foot for general shop use, increasing toward 50–100 lumens per square foot of the actual task area for detailed bench work. A 200-square-foot general shop starts around 6,000–10,000 total lumens. High ceilings, precision work, and commercial uses need a specific lighting assessment.

Outdoor lighting.

Porches, patios, entries, and exterior walls need fixtures and connections suited to weather exposure. Damp-location and wet-location ratings serve different conditions. We plan wiring routes, switching, mounting, and any required GFCI protection around the installation. Aim light where it is useful and limit glare toward neighboring properties and walkways.

Brightness starting point: about 400–800 lumens per porch or entry fixture, or 800–1,600 lumens per fixture for larger patio or exterior wall areas. These are fixture-selection ranges, not whole-yard targets. Shielding, beam direction, and mounting height help limit glare and light spill.

Security lighting.

Motion-activated floodlights, photocells, timers, and compatible smart controls can improve visibility around doors, driveways, and side yards. Choose placement and aiming to illuminate an approach without creating harsh glare. Share coverage priorities and whether power already exists at the location. Lighting supports visibility but cannot guarantee security.

Brightness starting point: about 1,000–3,000 lumens per residential floodlight fixture, depending on coverage and mounting height. Several carefully aimed lights can work better than one glaring source. Match beam spread and motion controls to the approach being illuminated.

Gazebo lighting.

A gazebo or covered outdoor seating area may use surface fixtures, decorative pendants, or listed string lighting. Weather exposure, mounting support, switching, and the supply route all affect the installation. A roof alone does not make every location dry. Permanent lighting needs suitable wiring and equipment rather than an extension cord used as a permanent supply.

Brightness starting point: about 10–20 lumens per square foot for comfortable general light, or 1,000–2,000 total lumens for a 100-square-foot seating area. Dimming helps soften evening lighting; cooking or detailed tasks need additional focused light.

Decorative lighting.

Chandeliers, wall sconces, picture lights, coves, and accent strips can highlight the features you enjoy. We review fixture weight, mounting support, driver locations, service access, and dimmer compatibility. Coordinate locations with artwork, cabinetry, and ceiling details so the finished effect is deliberate and the equipment remains accessible for maintenance.

Brightness starting point: about 200–800 lumens per small accent fixture or decorative lamp. A chandelier providing general room lighting may need substantially more combined output. There is no single required average for decorative lighting; match the beam and dimming range to the feature and intended effect.

Landscape lighting.

Path lights, step lights, and carefully aimed accent lights can improve outdoor visibility and highlight planting or architecture. Low-voltage systems use a suitable transformer and compatible lights, cable, and controls. Line-voltage landscape lighting needs a different wiring approach. We review exposure, cable routing, load, and voltage drop; low voltage still requires equipment installed for its intended environment.

Brightness starting point: about 100–200 lumens per path light and 200–500 lumens per small landscape accent light. Larger trees and architectural features may need higher output and different beams. Start with modest, shielded light and review the effect after dark.

Holiday lighting.

Plan convenient outdoor receptacles, suitable GFCI protection, and compatible timers or controls for seasonal decorations. We can review the expected load and whether a dedicated circuit or additional outlets would help. Use decorations and temporary cords listed for their location and follow their instructions. Seasonal cords are not permanent wiring; permanent decorative lighting is a separate installation.

Brightness reference: holiday displays have no useful single lumen average. Small decorative string bulbs may produce only a few lumens each, while larger patio-style bulbs may produce tens of lumens each. Where listed, multiply lumens per bulb by bulb count to compare strings. Choose spacing and the decorative effect without relying on strings for entry, stair, or pathway lighting. Check the electrical load separately using the product’s watt or amp rating.